From sun-kissed plains, evergreen jungles and an idyllic coastline absent from tourists, Saadani National Park is an uncommon East African experience.
It sounds too far fetched to be true – an epic safari adventure filled with scenic savannahs, verdant bush lands married with calm beaches absent from tourists. This description may sound like the stuff of dreams, but here in Tanzania’s Saadani National Park, it is the reality.
Saadani itself may be big at 1,100km2, which is bigger than Switzerland, but it is undoubtedly East Africa’s best-kept secret when it comes to game viewing amongst diverse landscapes. Located a short 30-minute flight from either Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar, Saadani is the only national park in East Africa hugging the Indian Ocean coastline; that means a bush and beach adventure all in one – score!
Its unique locale offers a perfect coupling of both marine and mainland flora and fauna so get the binoculars and the big camera lenses ready!
What to expect from Saadani
A typical day in Saadani can start off with a quick dip in the tranquil waters of the Indian Ocean followed by a game drive by open jeep or on foot. Seriously, how much adventure can one day be pack in?!
The best time for game-viewing is during January and February and from June to August where you could cast your eyes on a wide variety of grazers and primates. Although it doesn’t have the same pulling power as the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater in terms of it being home to an abundant amount many wild occupants, you will be able to spot a fair few.
See – Explore the stunning Selous Game Reserve
There are around 30 species of mammals are present as well as various reptiles including the jaw-dropping crocodiles.
Species include giraffe, buffalo, warthog, common waterbuck, reedbuck, greater kudu, hartebeest, wildebeest, sable antelope, and the vervet monkey. Saadani is also home to the spotted hyena, leopard and the black-backed jackal.
Thankfully, wildlife continues to grow in Saadani since the Tanzania National Park Authority (TANAPA) took over the park’s management in 2005. This year, TANAPA will introduce 50 zebras into the park to help boost the population.
Many large fish species including humpback whales, green turtles and dolphins can also be sighted along the coast.
Bird Bingo
If you have laser eyes and good at spotting things from a mile off (I envy your eyesight, let’s just say that), you are in luck as Saadani is the place to play some bird bingo. Common bird sightings include the African fish eagle, goliath heron, and kingfisher.
Elephants aplenty
The pinnacle safari moment (if you are uber lucky) would be capturing the sight of an elephant being in close proximity to the coast. It has been reported that herds in excess of 50 elephants are now regularly seen in areas close to the beach. It is not only near the beaches the elephants roam as a vast number of them can be found around Saadani’s salt flats, the appropriately named Elephant Island (private conservancy).
I am told that it is possible to spot a concentrated sighting of these magnificent mammals – unfortunately, I was not so lucky when I visited!
Ditch the jeep, go on a foot safari
Saadani not only differs from other safari’s because of its unique locale but also because you can do a foot safari; so time to ditch the jeep and step onto no man’s land to spot Africa’s famed wildlife by foot.
I was led on a spontaneous trek around Elephant Island by professional tour guide David Gruthie, manager of Simply Saadani and joined by a couple of whom he was passing the baton to be the caretakers of the accommodation. The area itself had received its moniker due to the sheer number of elephant passes witnessed most evenings.
We were looking to trace the footprints of wildlife that had roamed across the land, and to study smaller flora and fauna that often gets missed on game drives.
At first, I felt unnerved despite how empowering it felt to be out in the wild. After all, we were far from the coast and treading the desolate salt plains with no Masaai warrior with us. Usually, one would assist on treks to help fight back or scare the animals off if need. Therefore, we had to take extra caution as our escape route – the jeep – became out of focus.
See fresh lion paw prints!
Along the foot safari, we saw a myriad of animal prints, however, there was one that really blew me away – seeing fresh lion paw prints.
Mesmerised by the sheer size of some of the prints, which dwarfed my own, we ended up following the trail, counting the tracks one by one. We had counted 12 lion trails, seemingly weaving in and out of their fellow tribe members’ new tracks. Stepping side by side a pride’s journey across Saadani’s plains really did put it into perspective for me on who rules the lands and just how small you are in the world – and vulnerable too!
Gruthie then scared me even more by informing us that this prideful journey along the salt plains was made within the last 12 hours – and the lions would still be nearby. This added a sense of awesomeness to how close I felt with standing afoot in a lion’s habitat. At the same time, I felt a sense of unease, knowing that these large cats – and possibly all 12 of them – were still lurking around close by. Would I become their dinner?
How to become a Safari Rapunzel
Standing at 20 metres, Simply Saadani Camp’s sister property, Babs’ Camp is a one-of-a-kind safari skyscraper. Saadani’s adult-like treehouse features a crow’s nest platform, rewarding those who venture up the five-storey tall building with a 360-degree view of both bush and sea.
It sits at the edge of Elephant Island private conservancy, a piece of land that boasts a hive of wildlife activity along its salt flats and is only accessible by Bab’s Camp and Simply Saadani Camp guests.
After a hard day of going on both jeep and foot safari, we went up the tour to enjoy a nonchalant sundowner drink in its unorthodox sky bar. Sitting on the open-rooftop fifth floor made me feel like I was a custodian of the park. Not only could I see the safari park’s endless plains and its sublime coastline, I could hear enjoy the soundtrack of Saadani’s wild residents without any disruption. Nothing has given me more of a sense of solitude on safari than being present in the moment and listening to the world around me.
Lagoon boat rides
If you are all safari-ed out (pfft as if that would ever happen!) and just want life to be a tad cruisier, you can go on a small boat ride in a nearby lagoon, close to Simply Saadani. The boat may be as basic but its perfect just to take in the surrounds and play another round of bird bingo.
The trip down the lagoon will be led by a Maasai warrior who will point out what to check out along the way. Lazy, eh? Unfortunately, the only thing that is bad about this ride is seeing the amount of rubbish waste from nearby Zanzibar wash up in the inlet.
This is a perfect little activity to recharge after heavy, hardcore days of exploring Saadani.
Check out other Tanzania tips from my fellow bloggers – What to expect on safari
Getting there
By air: Major airlines fly into Dar Es Salaam or Zanzibar Town. Charter flight company Coastal Aviation flies from Dar Es Salaam and Zanzibar to Saadani daily.
Stay
Simply Saadani Camp – This is an excellent choice to make the most of your safari getaway by the sea in a stilted beachfront wooden bandas (bungalow). This accommodation is located near the north gate of Saadani National Park. Start the morning or end the day with a swim in the seriously serene coastline with almost no other insight. Behind the cabin, the bush is your backyard.
Simply Saadani Camp has double rooms from US$330. I would highly recommend doing a night up the one-of-a-kind safari tower at sister property Boab’s Camp (suites from US$530). Babs’ Camp is a private camp for two to four people. Just hearing the wildlife from five stories high at sunrise was something I would never forget.
When to go
Saadani is generally accessible all-year round, but the access roads are sometimes impassable during the wet season between April and May. The best time to visit is January and February and between June – August.
Disclaimer: I travelled as a guest as a part of a super adventurous tour of Tanzania with Simply Saadani (part of Tent with a View) and Coastal Aviation. All thoughts and opinion are honest and my own.